The Postgrad Stylist: Look Sharp in Raw Denim

In light of the holiday season being just around the corner and this Friday being the biggest day in retail (Black Friday), I wanted to bring up some key purchases for the Postgraduate wardrobe. I used to work in fashion and retail and I can tell you, I’ve seen some trends gain all kinds of momentum and others trends I’ve gladly seen die, but through it all, I’ve noticed some timeless items that are a must-have for any fashion-conscious and grown-up male wardrobe, so from time to time, I will be doing these Postgrad Stylist posts to help elucidate some of these items.

So first up for the Postgrad Stylist is raw denim. What’s the big deal about raw denim? If you talk to me in person, I could go on forever about the merits of (Japanese selvedge) raw denim so I’ll highlight a few of the main points to keep things snappy:

1. Raw denim is an empty canvas. My current pair, made by a high-end Japanese brand named The Flat Head, just recently hit their 1-year anniversary mark. That means I’ve put in a solid year’s worth of wear into it with minimal washes/soaks. When I first bought them, they were a deep indigo color, stiff as a paper clip and too tight for me to button. Doesn’t sound very appealing, right? After the year of wear, they’ve completely molded themselves to my body and are my most comfortable piece of clothing ever. I had to take them in for repair recently and I actually missed them the two weeks or so I wasn’t able to wear them. Over the course of the year, my denim has stretched and faded to my natural range of motion. There is whiskering on the lap, honeycombing behind the knees, high contrast fading and tons of other technical denim head jargon that won’t really make sense to you. All in all, the denim is completely yours and the feel of it is unique to your body shape and that alone is priceless.

2. Raw denim is sturdy. Why the fuss over raw denim? Why pay hundreds of dollars for a piece of clothing you can get from your local Walmart for considerably less? Because you get what you pay for. The denim you’ll get from Walmart is highly manufactured, sloppily quality-controlled and will last maybe half a year of hard wear before you have to go get a new pair. A lot of the time, their denim comes pre-distressed to emulate the look and feel of hard wear but in no way is this similar to the look and feel of genuine wear. I liken it to the difference between painting a masterpiece and purchasing a laser-printed etching of a masterpiece. The investment and connection just isn’t the same between the two. Raw denim is also a lot sturdier. Designed to last a lifetime, sometimes denim enthusiasts can go years, maybe even a decade, if they take care of their jeans right. The denim is of higher quality and thicker, the stitching reinforced to last. The difference between machined and hand-fabrication is world’s apart.

3. Raw denim looks good. If you’re going for that mature fashion-conscious look, raw denim is the way to go. You can choose the style (slim, relaxed, regular) and different sized leg openings and inseams, but you do want it to be fitted enough so it conforms to your body. Anything that fits well and feels natural will look good and do wonders for your confidence. And a solid pair of project denim is a good add to any Postgraduate wardrobe.

So where do you start? What are the prices ranges? How do you get your hands on your first pair? Can I get rhinestones on mine? (Hell no!)

First, get your measurements. Find out your true waist size and your inseam. As humbling as that may be, you want to get the right numbers so you can find the perfect pair to fit you.

The breakdown is as follows:

Low: For under $100.00, you can basically get yourself a pair of Levi’s Men’s 501 Shrink-To-Fits They’re not as sturdy as most raw denim, but for someone that just wants to dabble and get their feet wet, 501′s aren’t an investment that hurt the wallet too much.

Mid: For around $150.00, you can get yourself a really solid pair of raw denim from A.P.C. Their New Standard and New Cure models are a staple in a lot of my friends’ wardrobes. The issue with them is that they size really weird, so you’ll either have to research well (for the most part, you size down 2-3 sizes) or try it on in-store to get exactly what you want. My friends at 3sixteen have recently come out with their own raw denim line that I’ve recommended in this price range. Their fabrication is done within the United States so their quality is unparalleled at this price range. Any of the jeans from A.P.C. and 3sixteen will be a significant upgrade from regular denim.

High: From $200+, you’re entering the high-end realm. The denim here is the highest quality, hand-milled and loomed for the best fades. There’s a wide range of styles. You can go from modern cuts to workwear inspired cuts. Japanese brands are notorious for their attention to detail. They’re enamored by the golden age of denim in the early 20th century and have sought out and refurbished the instruments and tools that made the highest quality denim close to a hundred years ago. They’ve mastered every aspect of the denim fabrication process and consistently come out with products that can last a lifetime. (Selfedge, B.I.G.)

So there you have it. There’s much more to the whole process (denim care, soaking, starch, leather goods etc.) but I’ll leave that all for another time. For now, get your hands on a pair of project denim and you’ll know firsthand what I’m talking about.

For more, check out the video below: